As a native of the flat Midwest, I lived much of my life thinking of hot springs as the rotten-egg-smelling, skin-melting-off-the-body pools I’d seen at Yellowstone on vacation.
Most of the country east of the Mississippi is devoid of geothermal energy, with the seismic forces that shaped the mountains now long silent, leaving the peaks to crumble into shadows of their former selves.
And then there’s Colorado.
Our relatively young mountains have dozens, maybe hundreds, of places where geothermally heated water either bubbles to the surface or has been driven up by man-made wells. The Utes knew about them and considered their waters to be healing. Many of Colorado’s original tourist destinations were hot springs.
To soak in these naturally heated waters is healing, whether for sore joints and muscles from work or play, or for a mind exhausted by the rigors of daily life. Close your eyes, clear your mind and let it all bubble away.
This is your guide to exploring some of Colorado’s best hot springs. The rates listed are for summer, as some resorts change rates for the colder months.
DESERT REEF
The Front Range isn’t known for its geothermal resources, but drive south of Colorado Springs to Florence and you’ll find the exception. Enjoy views of the Wet Mountains while you soak in one of several man-made pools, which are kept below body temperature in summer and over 100 degrees in winter. Clothing is optional except on Fridays until 7 p.m., and single males are required to have a female partner. You can stay in one of their on-site campers or tiny houses or bring your own rig.
Admission: $25 weekdays/$35 weekends
More information: DesertReefHotSpring.com
GLENWOOD SPRINGS
People have been taking in the waters of Glenwood Springs on the Western Slope since 1888, one of Colorado’s original destination resorts. At 405 feet long and 100 feet wide, it’s the largest hot springs pool in the world. There are diving boards, lanes for lap swimming and a water park for the kids. You can stay in the historic lodge or pop in for a day soak after hiking in the Elk Mountains.
Admission: Rates vary by day of the week and season
More information: HotSpringsPool.com
HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS
About two hours west of Denver, this town gets its name from its venerable hot springs resort, which has been hosting soakers for more than a century. There are 18 pools of varying sizes and temperatures to enjoy, from 98 to 112 degrees. You can stay in the rustic 17-room hotel or camp on the grounds. It’s a perfect cap to a day spent exploring nearby Rocky Mountain National Park.
Admission: $26 adults/$14 children
More information: HotSulphurSprings.com
ORVIS HOT SPRINGS AND SPA
You won’t need to worry about remembering your swimsuit at this gorgeous resort in the town of Ridgway on the Western Slope. There are several pools layered in a lovingly manicured garden landscape, where visitors are free to soak au naturale. And for the shy folks, there’s also an indoor pool where swimsuits are required. The lithium-rich water will lull your body and soul into sweet relaxation. You can stay in one of their hotel-style rooms or camp just outside the springs.
Admission: $28 adults/$12 children
More information: OrvisHotSprings.com
SAND DUNES RECREATION
The San Luis Valley has numerous hot springs, thanks to the geologic forces that made the mighty Sangre de Cristo Mountains. This resort is a true locals’ favorite, and it’s an easy drive from Alamosa, offering affordable rates. There’s a main outdoor swimming pool that’s been popular among valley residents for generations, and the new addition, The Greenhouse. This indoor area is for adults only, with several pools from 98 to 112 degrees. There’s drink and food service to complement your soak, and their meal options are renowned throughout the valley.
Admission: $18 adults/$12 children, $7 additional for the Greenhouse
More information: SandDunesPool.com
MOUNT PRINCETON HOT SPRINGS
One of Colorado’s most iconic hot springs resorts is located in the Arkansas River Valley at the foot of 14,196-foot Mount Princeton. There are several large pools to choose from, complete with a waterslide, and more intimate creekside pools along Chalk Creek, which are usable only after the snow above has melted. Visitors can stay in the 9-room lodge, cabins or their cliffside or hillside rooms.
Admission: $40 adults/$35 children and seniors on weekdays, $45/$35 weekends, and the water slide is $7 extra.
More information: MtPrinceton.com
STRAWBERRY PARK
This gorgeous resort is located in the mountains above Steamboat Springs in a lush microclimate of a valley. There are numerous pools both large and small, as well as a cold river for cooling off on hot summer days. You can camp or stay in one of their tiny cabins. In winter the resort takes on a whole different feel, with snow so deep you’re required to have a 4-wheel-drive vehicle with snow tires, though shuttles are available from town. Be aware that clothing is optional after dark, so minors aren’t permitted to enter.
Admission: $20 per person, reservations required
More information: StrawberryHotSprings.com
PAGOSA SPRINGS
The granddaddy resort of hot springs in southwest Colorado is like a hot springs theme park, with 25 pools ranging from piping hot to riverside cold plunges along the banks of the San Juan River. In true resort fashion, wait staff will bring food and drinks right to the pool so you don’t even have to get out. Plans are in the works for an 80,000-square-foot expansion, making this a true giant of thermal warmth. You can stay on-site in one of their 79 hotel rooms or the more affordable motels across the street. If you don’t want to pony up to soak at the resort, there are free riverside pools just upstream. Be warned: the smell of sulfur will be with your swimsuit for a long time.
Admission: $67 adults/$35 children
More information: PagosaHotSprings.com
SUNWATER SPA
Manitou Springs has long been renowned for its mineral springs that drip from historic fountains around town. This small resort and spa is the only place where you can soak in the mineral springs via man-made tubs of cedar and take in the stunning mountain views. Tubs are reserved in 90-minute blocks, so only you and your group will be in it. It also includes access to the sauna and indoor saline pool. You’ll feel far away from Colorado’s second-largest city just down the road.
Admission: Contact the resort, (719) 695-7007
More information: sunwaterspa.com
VALLEY VIEW
This rustic resort in the San Luis Valley has the most natural feel of any on this list, with more than a dozen pools scattered over the hillside. The water wells right up from the ground in hikeable ponds, with gorgeous views of the valley and water temperatures that vary depending on snowmelt. There’s also a large swimming pool, sauna and other soaking options that don’t require a hike. In summer you can take a hike to see the huge swarm of bats that emerge from the former Orient Mine. Making it feel even more natural is the fact that clothing is optional everywhere on the property. The springs are run by the nonprofit Orient Land Trust, which strictly limits the number of people on any given day, so reservations are a must. For lodging, you can rent one of their rustic cabins, a hotel-style room or a campsite.
Admission: $17 summer/$15 winter, children under 16 free
More information: olt.org/vvhs
