Founded in 1871, Colorado Springs was not the first city to rise at the foot of Pikes Peak. That honor goes to Colorado City, a once-rip roaring town founded in 1859 by four businessmen who hoped to profit from the Colorado gold and silver rush. Remember Pikes Peak or Bust? Once the immigrants crossed the great plains, they needed to rest and reprovision before going up Ute Pass to seek their fortune in the Rockies.
The little city survived, but barely. Once the gold rush fizzled out, it was just a shabby little town on the road between Colorado Springs and Manitou. “In A Lady’s Life in the Rocky Mountains,” Isabella Bird, who passed through in 1873, described it as a “decayed-looking cluster of homes bearing the arrogant name of Colorado City.”
Yet the city persisted, soon becoming the regional center of manufacturing and industry. Distilleries, breweries, liquor stores, saloons and brothels were banned in Colorado Springs, but Colorado City was more permissive. When gold was discovered in Cripple Creek, Colorado City prospered, thanks to railroads, refineries, glassworks and sin. The south side of Colorado Avenue was lined with saloons and gambling halls, while the north was more respectable, with boarding houses, retail stores, club houses, City Hall and the jail.
While Colorado Springs was stodgy and respectable, Colorado City was ready to party. Westside resident John (Prairie Dog) O’Byrne broke two elk to drive single or double and rode down to Colorado Springs with the notorious Laura Belle by his side, hoping to spook the horses drawing the elaborate carriages of the “society people.” Reminiscing twenty years later, he bragged that “I have seen as many as three run-aways at one time, women screaming at the top of their voices and the driver hanging on for dear life.”
Alas, the good times ended when gold fever subsided. Colorado City went broke and was annexed by Colorado Springs, the saloons and brothels closed and the once bustling commercial district began its long, slow decline. By the early 1970’s many buildings were vacant and deteriorating, and Colorado Springs leaders suggested that much of it should be condemned, razed and replaced with a factory to provide jobs for struggling Westsiders.
Enter retired Colonel Dave Hughes and other preservationists, who put together a plan to rebuild, revitalize and repair Old Town, now called Old Colorado City. In a few years it was once again a bustling commercial district, as it remains today. Now a National Historic District, the beautiful old buildings are owned and occupied by local businesses and entrepreneurs. Parking is easy, and walking is pleasant and fun – friendly shops, restaurants, bars and no high-rises to block the sun.
Every building has a story, and they’re all fascinating, but OCC isn’t a museum. The streets are lively, fun, safe and welcoming. Walking west from Bancroft Park on the north side of Colorado Avenue, you’ll be tempted to stop at shops such as the Holly Leaf, All that Glitters, Jen’s Place, Mountain Man Nut and Fruit, Mackenzie & West and Febra’s. Succumb to temptation! Whether you want cool clothes, a great snack, the best ice cream in the city, or extraordinary jewelry, it’s all there.
Hungry? You might try Jake & Telly’s, offering great Greek food in a spacious second floor location with a wraparound balcony at 2616 W. Colorado. Or you could enjoy great Italian cuisine at Paravicini/Sopra, occupying the entire space of a notable historic building at 2802 W. Colorado.
Across the street, check out Tapateria and Pizzeria Rustica. Their buildings, like every historic structure on the south side of the Avenue between 27th and 24th Street, once housed saloons and gambling halls. All of them had back doors that enabled customers to slip in the brothels that lined Cucharras Street, the discreet red light district.
No more brothels and gambling, but great pizza at Pizzeria Rustica and amazing gluten-free Tapas at Tapateria, not to mention great wine, beer and spirits. A little further down the street, check out Thunder & Buttons, a much-loved bar/restaurant that opened in 1978. Suggested to the original owner by Colorado City savior Dave Hughes, the name celebrates John O’Byrne and his two elk: Thunder and Buttons.
Prairie Dog, we haven’t forgotten you!
